Introduction
In this 21st century, with technology - based options like plastic surgery, laser rejuvenation surgeries and Botox chemicals, one questions seems to come up again and again – Is there a place for natural, herbal products?
Natural and herbal Anti-ageing therapies have been used since ancient times. One such product which has been mentioned frequently in Ayurvedic texts is “Kumkumadi Tailam”. Literally translated as “Saffron Oil”, it is claimed that “Kumkumadi Tailam” can rejuvenate and renew skin cells brightening the skin and giving it a youthful and healthy appearance. Typical ingredients used in this oil are Saffron, Indian Licorice, Sandalwood oil, Turmeric oil, Sesame oil amongst others.
Anti-ageing oils have been prevalent not just in ancient India, but in other parts of the world as well. Study of antique Egyptian notes recorded on papyrus & engravings on the temple walls have revealed precious information about the ancient Egyptian cosmetics & essential oils. Upon inspection of remains of containers & bottles of perfumes, it has been revealed that essential oils used in Anti-ageing treatments amongst others were extracted using a sophisticated technique termed as “Enfleurage”. In this process a layer of vegetable fat was used for absorbing the essence of the aromatic flowers, which was then dissolved in alcohol & the “absolute of that floral” thus achieved were used in cosmetics & toiletries. These oils were also applied, inhaled & even ingested to achieve Anti-ageing results.
Ageing commences as soon as we are born. As skin is the part of our body, most visible to others, ageing becomes even more apparent once the quality of skin is examined. Since looking younger is a desire as pervasive as it is deep seated in human psyche, we as humans have consistently tried to hide the visible symptoms of the undeniable passing of time. There has been a consistent increase in the interest in reducing the appearance of ageing with the use of plant extracts and herbs. Plants produce a great variety of organic compounds some of which are responsible in reversing or mitigating the effects of ageing like Terpenoids, Alkaloids, and Phenolic Compounds.
Science behind ageing and how do herbs help?
There are basically two types of ageing:
1. Chronological ageing: Changes in skin resulting from the passage of time alone.
Causes of Chronological ageing: Substantial evidence exists to support that ageing is associated with free radicals which damage the skin by various “Oxidants” or an effect of certain inflammatory elements. “Oxidation” or “Oxidative Cell Metabolism” is one of the bigger causes of Chronological ageing as the body and especially some parts of the skin are routinely exposed to stressful environmental factors such as pollutants and UV radiation, which produce many aggressive oxidants that damage all the biological skin cell membranes.
Compounds that solve Chronological ageing with anti- oxidative properties are usually found in:
a. Coffee Oil: The extract of the fruits of the coffee plant (Coffea arabica) has shown to exhibit antioxidant activity mediated by potent antioxidant polyphenols, especially Chlorogenic acid, condensed Proanthocyanidins, Quinic acid, and Ferulic acid. This extract showed improving fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, and overall appearance.
b. Turmeric Extract: Curcumin from the roots of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) has been known to show antioxidative properties.
c. Star anise Extract: Japanese Star Anise essential oil has good antioxidant, anti-elastase, and anti-inflammatory effects and low cytotoxicity in human cell lines.
d. Pomegranate Extracts: It has also been shown that the Pomegranate (Punica granatum) extract protects human skin against UV induced oxidative stress and markers of photo-ageing, and therefore, might be a useful supplement in skin care products.
e. Amla Extract: Extract of Emblica officinalis fruit has an antioxidant activity related to UV protection (against photo-ageing).
f. Lavender Oil: Lavender Oil (Lavandula) is known to possess anti-oxidative properties which counters Oxidative Cell Metabolism and mitigates the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
2. Photo - ageing: Changes in skin due to chronic exposure to the Sun.
Causes of Photo - ageing: Tissue injury due to ultraviolet exposure results in destabilization of certain compounds in the skin such as Collagen. A few years ago, this interesting approach to account for presence of wrinkle appearance as well as loss of dermal elasticity was researched. It was concluded that Prolonged exposure leads to “Skin Matrix Damage” which usually manifests in wrinkles. Clinical presentation of Photo-ageing includes dryness of the skin, irregular pigmentation-freckles, wrinkling, and inelasticity.
Compounds that solve Photo – ageing with tissue injury alleviating properties are usually found in:
a. Gotu Kola Extract: Gotu Kola Extract (Centella asiatica) has certain protective effects and promotes Collagen synthesis which results in Anti – inflammatory effect on the skin.
b. Amla Extract: Amla extract (Emblica officinalis) elevates the mitochondrial activity of human skin fibroblasts and promotes production of procollagen.
c. Coriander Oil: It has also been observed that Coriander oil cream mitigated UV-induced skin photoaging. Moreover, these pharmaceutical dosage forms significantly increased skin Collagen.
d. Immortelle Oil: Immortelle Oil (Helicrysum italicum) is known to reverse the effect of UV exposure, which reduces the synthesis of Collagen and Elastin, the loss of which results in visible signs of ageing like wrinkles or sagging of the skin.
Some Natural ingredients having anti-ageing properties widely found in India are:
1. Extracts of Liquorice (Glycyrriza glabra), Turmeric (Curcuma longa), Pomegranate (Punica granatum), fruits of Amla (Embelica officinale), leaves of Gotu Kola (Centella asiatica), dried bark of Cinnamon (Cinnamon zeylanicum), and fresh gel of Aloe vera in varied concentrations showed improvement of the skin hydration. These beneficial effects might be due to the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and UV protective properties of these herbal ingredients.
2. Sandalwood Oil: Some studies indicate that Sandalwood oil may have anti-inflammatory properties and may also restore moisture to the skin. When the skin is properly hydrated, it can combat manifestation of wrinkles.
3. Rosemary Oil: Rosemary oil (Salvia Rosmarinus) is known to for its anti-microbial and antioxidant properties. Its antioxidants help by breaking down “Free Radicals” which are responsible for reducing skin’s elasticity.
How IE can help the buyer in identifying, dealing with Indian suppliers?
We, at Innoveo Exports, have a wide array of verified suppliers for essential oils used in the cosmetics industry with Anti-ageing applications. We serve a veritable customer base who value quality and reliability by executing the end-to-end procurement process starting from matching customer’s requirement with suitable suppliers on our marketplace, to the delivery of the product and everything in between. Our post - sales service team is available for any queries or follow ups. We welcome you to explore our marketplace here.
How to use essential oils?
One should not directly apply essential oils or extracts before diluting them in carrier oils. Common carries oils can be:
a. Olive Oil
b. Grape Seed Oil
c. Coconut Oil
d. Almond Oil
e. Avocado Oil
A person should test a small amount on a patch of skin 24 hours before using the oil on larger areas. If any irritation occurs after 24 hours, they may be allergic to the oil and should not use it. If no irritation occurs, a person can apply the essential oil mixture directly to affected areas of the skin once or twice daily.
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